Время  один день 9 часов 36 минут

Координаты 4379

Загружено 12 сентября 2015 г.

Записано июля 2015

2 438 м
590 м
50,23 км

Просмотрено 5438 раз, скачано 94 раз

рядом с Kaloí Lákkoi, Crete (Greece)

I ascend by bicycle from Anopoli via the wonderful Ammoutsera road, that I first discovered in 2008.
Leaving the bicycle a pair of kms below the end of the road, I start to walk in direction Kakovoli. Although not among the highest mountains, it looks truly impressive, thanks to its mighty bare flank, from certain spots of the Ammoutsera valley.
I descend to the little Goniasmata, a hump on the saddle north of Kakovoli. Skirting the Pavlia Chalara, which is perhaps the most rugged place of the Lefka Ori, I climb the Askyfiotikos Soros. Descent through its N side to the E4 path, which leads shortly to the pass of Sideroportes, followed by the subsequent, somewhat higher saddle between Grias Soros and Agio Pneuma.
Wanting to sleep on the top of Agio Pneuma, but having run out of water, I take on a long detour to reach the mitato at Livada, which I find inhabited by a shepherd coming from Morocco. I reach the top of Agio Pneuma only at sunset. The wind suggests to spend the night sheltered by the walls of the roofless chapel, where I also mount my tunnel tent due to a temperature which is fairly low for my very light sleeping bag.
The following morning, traverse to Grias Soros, meeting the track of the day before at the saddle. The next summit is Mesa Soros, few metres higher, followed by Svourikti. The very summit of this bulky mountain is not especially interesting. Much better is a panoramic point lying NW, and dominating the Livada region. From Svourikti I traverse to Sternes via the col between the latter and little Zouridia.
I argue that the latter could be a good low observation point in the very heart of the Lefka Ori, such I found out to be Modaki in 2011, but I decide to leave it for the next time...
From Sternes I descend to Roussies. Leaving the backpack short above, I rush to the last mountain of the day, namely Pachnes. I give a nostalgic look to the summit shelter where I had slept in 2011, not knowing that I will sleep there only four days later, climbing the mountain from Agia Roumeli via the Eligias gorge. I return to the road and to the bicycle. Long descent to Anopoli, just in time for a dinner in my favourite restaurant, namely Platanos in front of the Daskalogiannis monument.
Note that this itinerary is far less demanding as the previous one that I published, featuring the Tripiti gorge and the long ridge of Katsaromoura. However, it conveys with a relatively low expense of energies a wonderful experience in the heart of these unique mountains.


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Bicycle parking

Start of the trail by foot, at the place where I parked the bicycle. There is no real path in direction Kakovoli, however one can easily guess the direction.

Kakovoli, 2214

Not among the highest summits, but very panoramic, especially over Ammoutsera.
Горный перевал

Goniasmata, 2042

This is a little summit, no more than a bump on the saddle between Kakovoli and Askyfiotikos Soros. We are on the east side of the region called Pavlia Chalara, perhaps the most rugged region of the Lefka Ori.

Askyfiotikos Soros, 2210

Lower than Grias Soros and Mesa Soros, but a no less perfect cone.
Горный перевал


Important pass also crossed by the E4 path
Горный перевал

Saddle N of Grias Soros

Between Grias Soros and Agio Pneuma. Crossed by the E4 path.

Mitato Livadas

I found it inhabited by a Moroccan shepherd. Water hose in the meadow just below.

Agio Pneuma, 2262

Northernmost among the important summits of the Lefka Ori. Like on Timios Stavros, Psiloritis, there is a chapel on the summit.

Grias Soros, 2331

Probably the most perfect cone of the Lefka Ori. Also a perfect place to shoot a 360 panorama of the Lefka Ori.

Mesa Soros, 2349

Perfect cone like Grias Soros.

Svourikti cairn

Big cairn at the NW edge of the long summit plateau.

Svourikti top, 2356

A very bulky mountain at the centre of the Lefka Ori. Also richer in water than the surrounding sites.

Sternes, 2335

The summit dominating Roussies.

Pachnes, 2453

Highest summit of the Lefka Ori, and for only three meters second summit of the island of Crete, after the Psiloritis. There is a shelter few metres south of the summit.

Pachnes W



The mitato and cisterns of Roussies are little above the end of the Ammoutsera road and little below the saddle between Pachnes and Sternes.

Road end

The road from Anopoli ends at approximately 2000 metres. Few more minutes by foot are needed to reach the cisterns of Roussies.
Маршрутная точка

Start of last push

The last steep couple of kilometers runs on the S flank of Sternes, with wonderful views on the pyramid of Troharis.

Bivouac place

The place where I spent the night on the way to Ammoutsera. It is the beginning of a little secondary road.

Fork to Mouri


Be careful

At this fork the road heading left has grown more important than in 2008, when there was no possibility of error. Be careful to turn right.

Anopoli join

The point where the Ammoutsera road joins the main road to Aradena and Agios Ioannis. There is now a big hotel nearby.
Маршрутная точка

Daskalogiannis monument

Here one finds Platanos, my favourite restaurant in Anopoli.


This is the name of the valley giving an access from SE to the Lefka Ori. There one also finds a mitato equipped with cisterns.

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