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Uploaded 13 января 2018 г.
Recorded января 2018
7 105 m
4 389 m
Просмотрено 149 раз(а), скачено 8 раз(а)
рядом с Kandav, Republican Subordination (Tajikistan)
The Zetlin route is a steady ascent from the base camp at Alp Navruz to the summit. The phases are the following
- crossing of the glacier right behind the camp;
- ascent to a first flat sport marked by an old moraine;
- a further ascent on rocky terrain, with the aid of some metres of fixed rope;
- a traverse, in slight descent, leading below the overhanging tongue of a glacier;
- passing below this tongue: this is the most dangerous moment;
- a tiring ascent on the right side of the glacier: first on debris, then by a rocky ressaut where there is further fixed rope;
- Camp 5100;
- the ascent very close to a serac wall, leading to the glacier, at whose beginning there is a Camp 5300 alternative to Camp 5100;
- the ascent of the whole glacier, till below the mighty wall of the mountain;
- Camp 5800, right below the rocks;
- an oblique traverse to the saddle at 6100 m where one joins the summit ridge;
- a fixed rope followed by steep snow;
- the very panoramic Camp 6300;
- the final ridge;
- the summit.
The description will be improved next.
This is the base camp both for Pik Korjenevskaja and for Pik Ismail Somoni, the former Communism Peak.
The ascent starts with the traversal of the glacier, which is right in contact with the base camp.
The first stretch with an altitude gain starts here.
Very beautiful flat spot, followed by a traverse in slight descent.
Just a formal rope to overcome some steep rocks.
This is the spot with the greatest objective dangers. Of course the traverse has to be done as quickly as possibile.
On a short rock band short of the Camp 5100. The subsequent snowfields may require care.
On the true right flank of the glacier.
At the saddle where one joins the summit ridge.
The last before the summit, and that were I shot the best photos.
Here some panoramas in original size:
This is the point where turned back at my first summit attempt.