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Уровень сложности   Умеренно

Координаты 1130

Uploaded 13 января 2018 г.

Recorded января 2018

-
-
7 105 m
4 389 m
0
2,1
4,2
8,31 km

Просмотрено 149 раз(а), скачено 8 раз(а)

рядом с  Kandav, Republican Subordination (Tajikistan)

The Zetlin route is a steady ascent from the base camp at Alp Navruz to the summit. The phases are the following
- crossing of the glacier right behind the camp;
- ascent to a first flat sport marked by an old moraine;
- a further ascent on rocky terrain, with the aid of some metres of fixed rope;
- a traverse, in slight descent, leading below the overhanging tongue of a glacier;
- passing below this tongue: this is the most dangerous moment;
- a tiring ascent on the right side of the glacier: first on debris, then by a rocky ressaut where there is further fixed rope;
- Camp 5100;
- the ascent very close to a serac wall, leading to the glacier, at whose beginning there is a Camp 5300 alternative to Camp 5100;
- the ascent of the whole glacier, till below the mighty wall of the mountain;
- Camp 5800, right below the rocks;
- an oblique traverse to the saddle at 6100 m where one joins the summit ridge;
- a fixed rope followed by steep snow;
- the very panoramic Camp 6300;
- the final ridge;
- the summit.

The description will be improved next.

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  • Фото Camp Moskvina
  • Фото Camp Moskvina
  • Фото Camp Moskvina
  • Фото Camp Moskvina
  • Фото Camp Moskvina
  • Фото Camp Moskvina
This is the base camp both for Pik Korjenevskaja and for Pik Ismail Somoni, the former Communism Peak.
  • Фото Moskvina glacier
  • Фото Moskvina glacier
  • Фото Moskvina glacier
  • Фото Moskvina glacier
  • Фото Moskvina glacier
  • Фото Moskvina glacier
The ascent starts with the traversal of the glacier, which is right in contact with the base camp.
  • Фото End of glacier crossing
  • Фото End of glacier crossing
  • Фото End of glacier crossing
  • Фото End of glacier crossing
  • Фото End of glacier crossing
  • Фото End of glacier crossing
The first stretch with an altitude gain starts here.
  • Фото Moraine
  • Фото Moraine
  • Фото Moraine
  • Фото Moraine
  • Фото Moraine
  • Фото Moraine
Very beautiful flat spot, followed by a traverse in slight descent.
  • Фото First fixed rope
  • Фото First fixed rope
Just a formal rope to overcome some steep rocks.
  • Фото Below glacier tongue
  • Фото Below glacier tongue
  • Фото Below glacier tongue
  • Фото Below glacier tongue
This is the spot with the greatest objective dangers. Of course the traverse has to be done as quickly as possibile.
On a short rock band short of the Camp 5100. The subsequent snowfields may require care.
  • Фото Camp 5100
  • Фото Camp 5100
  • Фото Camp 5100
  • Фото Camp 5100
On the true right flank of the glacier.
  • Фото Serac wall
  • Фото Serac wall
  • Фото Camp 5300
  • Фото Camp 5300
  • Фото Camp 5300
  • Фото Glacier
  • Фото Third fixed rope
  • Фото Camp 5800
  • Фото Camp 5800
  • Фото Camp 5800
  • Фото Oblique traverse
  • Фото Oblique traverse
  • Фото Camp 6100
  • Фото Camp 6100
  • Фото Camp 6100
  • Фото Camp 6100
At the saddle where one joins the summit ridge.
  • Фото Fourth fixed rope
  • Фото Fourth fixed rope
  • Фото Fourth fixed rope
  • Фото Fourth fixed rope
  • Фото Fourth fixed rope
  • Фото Camp 6300
  • Фото Camp 6300
  • Фото Camp 6300
  • Фото Camp 6300
  • Фото Camp 6300
  • Фото Camp 6300
The last before the summit, and that were I shot the best photos. Here some panoramas in original size:
  • Фото Summit ridge
  • Фото Summit ridge
  • Фото Summit ridge
  • Фото Summit ridge
  • Фото Summit ridge
  • Фото Summit ridge
  • Фото Little below the summit
  • Фото Little below the summit
  • Фото Little below the summit
  • Фото Little below the summit
This is the point where turned back at my first summit attempt.
  • Фото Pik Korjenevskaya
  • Фото Pik Korjenevskaya
  • Фото Pik Korjenevskaya
  • Фото Pik Korjenevskaya
  • Фото Pik Korjenevskaya
  • Фото Pik Korjenevskaya

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